Phool Galli, Matunga

I am living on five pairs of clothes since the last one month. They do not look old or shabby though I do not iron them after washing. I am someone who loves all my clothes ironed, provided someone else is doing it. The intensity of heat has gone up. By now, I would be rushing to buy summer clothes for self and children. I would be in the finalisation stage of hotels, airlines, transport etc. for my annual vacation. The curtains would have been washed, cupboards cleaned and all old stuff removed from home. Come May and Mumbai starts easing up in terms of traffic as schools are shut. The Mothers  and their cars are not running to drop their kids from one class to the next. So automatically, Mumbai traffic calms down. Today, I stepped out to buy my daily necessities to Matunga. It was green and quiet. No aroma of Filter Coffee and no fragrance of the flowers at Phool Galli. I stopped by to pick up bread and found Sprite and ThumsUp at a milk booth. I picked it up as a treat for the children. A woman who was driving  by,  paused and started honking. There were not even ten people on the road and no moving cars. She was making agitated actions at someone. I am biased towards women drivers. The honking was harsh to the ears. I had forgotten that one month and the sounds of Mumbai have changed and the smell too.

There are three or four beautiful temples in Phool Galli in Matunga Central. This Lane had vendors who sell flowers for weddings and Mandir. They make  beautiful Garlands of flowers. Right now, different colour curtains covered all their stalls.  In Phool Galli, Each temple has its distinct architecture and character.  There is also a Bharatnatyam Dance school just there. There is a lady who was on the pavement  with her cow. Since we do not live in villages where cows are easy to find, Mumbai has figured a way out. People come with a cow outside every temple in the mornings. You can feed the cow grass or laddu made by the lady, there itself. We have to pay for the grass and the Laddu. Laddu is made of dry grass and some seeds, is what I think though I have never tasted them. She is binding into small balls a mixture which looks natural. Today also the lady was there with her cow. I gave her five rupees for the grass. She said she needs a hundred bucks because she has seven cows. Though the temples are all closed, the lady is open for business. In certain posh areas, these women charge more money to feed their cows. Once I had spoken in detail with a cow lady. She had explained that they take the cow on rent from a cow shed. It is for a fixed number of hours. The cow cannot be fed any leftover food from people s houses including Roti. There was a guy selling fresh green coconuts under a tree. There was a calendar stuck on the wall behind showing the correct date.

Phool Galli has a mosque, an orphanage and beautiful old buildings. It is lined by trees on both side or should I say 'it was'. All old buildings are going and humongous new structures coming up in its place . Between two huge towers, lies a hidden gem, a beautiful lush green park. It was closed. I missed my potter in that lane. She has the best earthen pots. She has seen me for years coming to buy her wares annually. Last year, she saw me with my children. She was thrilled to see them as she had seen them as babies. She gave them two earthen scrubs like pumice stones and a mud bottle. I was thrilled and we do not even know each other s names. I missed her presence today. I have tried buying pots from Kumbharwada but when I buy from this lady, I am the happiest. The pots last well and the water tastes good. One must have an earthen pot in the house to store water. A plastic, glass or steel bottle or jug can never match the taste of the water from an earthen pot.  If I am talking about the  natural coolness of water at midnight, you can guess the Mumbai temperature.  Today, most friends have been sending me beautiful pictures  and videos of rain or hail storms in their towns. Mumbai cannot handle rains at this point. Metro work is halfway and so is the storm water drainage work which the BMC insists on doing it in summer season. 

During Ganpati, Phool Galli has their own Bappa. Bappa and the entire Pandal is made of fresh flowers. It is a small Pandal on the footpath but very unique and full of love. Akshay Tritiya today. four more months to Ganpati.

Notes to myself:
Phool Galli should be included in the Heritage walks of Mumbai. I cannot understand why Chor bazaar, Fort and Ballard Estate are considered for Heritage walks. Phool Galli is heritage is a 'living' way.