Bali Ha'i - 2
When we travel on a vacation, we are in a good mood. Almost everyone we interact with is warm, friendly and helpful. At Tegal Sari in Ubud, there was a subtle difference. Adding to all these qualities, people were completely genuine. No perfunctory hotel talks by the staff. The hotel is very interestingly located in between paddy fields. The owner kept acquiring little strip of land between two paddy fields and built the hotel as and when he got the land. The hotel has two entrances...one is manned, has a parking, ponds with water lilies and you walk into the Reception area which is a hut like structure which opens into a paddy field. They have the temple or Padma opposite the Reception area. It is enclosed and has a gate...very rustic and moss covered. Subtle music from a nearby restaurant is heard because of the quietness of the place. The pool has trees and paddy fields on both sides. It was raining on and off. We got to see the paddy workers sowing the saplings and the green paddy growing. The pool is not the usual blue tiled hotel pool but tiled with natural rock...of course smoothened a bit. The Champa tree can be found all over Ubud and sure enough it was there at the head of the pool. How do you make out what is the head of the table? Similarly, for me, head of the pool is the deep end. The water was not chlorinated like other pools all over. There is one room which is kind of located on the old overhead tank. It is a circular room with a circular iron steps leading up to it. The other end of the hotel opens into another street which is a minute's walk from the Monkey Forest. This one has a lovely sit out for a reception with a large circular bamboo sofa and a library. There is a restaurant called Warung Semesta which serves Vegan food. Fresh coconut is available at this and the restaurant near the reception , so while going or coming from your walks, you can just have coconut water. The size of the coconut is huge. The entrance is manned by a security guard and a phone which you can use to call the main lobby. Both entrances of the hotel are very fascinating and freeing. This hotel does not try to showcase a bit of Ubud, it is naturally so.
The Museum in Ubud is landscaped beautifully with ponds, statues and fountains. The ticket allows you to a free cup of tea at the Museum Cafetaria, which we missed having. The museum gives you a feel of the history. It was ruled by the Dutch and they caused a lot of havoc amongst the people. Some German person came and has written the history. The museum gives a very 'white' view of Bali. It puts all the trauma the local Balinese had to go through, under the carpet. That way, I found the History museum in Hong Kong, was bold in its approach and showed the British atrocities in their videos. They did not pussy foot around the business of East India Company, which was to sell Opium. None of our Indian museums show the truth of the Mughal and British atrocities, I wonder why. The Ubud Palace is in the heart of central Ubud, just like the museum. The Palace is like a small little courtyard which is open to public. Please don't imagine that you will take hours seeing it. The Kechak dance show happens at a lot of places in Ubud. It is dramatic and gives us an understanding of the Balinese religion and culture which is so similar to ours.
Ubud was created by Rishi Markandeshwar. Bali has entirely Hindu population and Ubud is the most religious and auspicious place for them. All Balinese Hindus believe in Ramayan and Mahabharat. The family is an important part of their life. Joint family system is prevalent in Bali. Rishi Markandeshwar found the holy springs and medicinal herbs all over Ubud. The Balinese people we met want to come to the Ganga. They know that the Indian economy is doing very well. They want to travel within India as they cannot just imagine the vastness of our country in terms of places, population, temples, religions, languages, colour and more. They know that we have very good education and lot of universities.
The spring water at Pura Teertha Empul supplies water to the entire Ubud and its paddy fields. Coffee is cultivated too. At Pura Teertha Empul, people come for a holy dip. They stand in a queue and make the offerings of flowers, bathe and pray in the pond. For tourists like us who did not carry a change of clothes, sarongs are provided at a minimal rent. We wore the emerald green sarong with a red sash and bathed. The emerald green satin sarong did make me feel beautiful. There are lockers and basic changing rooms free of cost.Good shopping at this place and cheaper than the Ubud main town. We did not buy anything but I realised it when I went to the Ubud market. That is the thing about holidays, there is always so much to do even when you are chilling. Shop wherever you spot something you like. Do not wait for a better deal as you will spend more time looking for the same stuff and bargaining.
Mount Kintamani is an active volcano with Lake Batur at its base. The fantastic view from the hills into Lake Batur. Try to find a good place to sit and enjoy your meal. Most places have buffet and they overcharge in taxes. Be firm about the rate you will pay and check your bill. Avoid the restaurants your driver takes you to, as here it is driver getting the commission and bad food.
Pura Besakih Temple is the main temple of Bali. It is built on Mount Agung. There are 23 temples built on various ridges or levels. There is a temple of Blacksmiths. The blacksmith community was the closest to the king as they made swords with which the king could protect his kingdom. The main temple of blacksmiths is here. The multiple pillars are covered with red cloth and look stunning. The split gateway or the entrance is peculiar to all Balinese temples. The village is located there and we saw some lovely local village kids playing in the lawns of the temple. Best is to take a guide here who can explain the entire temple or else you would just walk around not knowing a thing about the significance of each area of the temple. There are chariot like structures where offerings are made on it.The temples are open 24 hours for the locals. For tourists, the temples close at six pm.
Goa Gajah is a Ganesh temple in a cave at the base of a mountain. The cave is carved and has a fresh water spring. Inside the cave there is Ganpati idol and a 3 Shivlings. The walk down the mountain to the cave is beautiful. Sarongs are a must in all temples and given free of cost to wear and return. Amazing leather shops near the temple. Must buy all your bags from here. Needless to say, we did not buy as I did not want to shop during sightseeing. The temples are so unique that to miss them and shop would be a waste of time.
Tanah Lot temple is what one sees in a lot of Bali pics. It is a temple on the rock in the middle of the Indian ocean. During low tide, one can go to the base of the rock. There is a fresh water spring under the temple. The temple is open for local Balinese Hindus only. One can see a ceremony happening above as you take a sip of the sweet spring water with the waves crashing around you. The sunsets are spectacular in Tanah Lot. Lot of the drivers take tourists here during the day time or when there is high tide and you cant access the sea or the spring water or experience the spectacular sunset.
Wonderful glimpse into the history, culture and places of Bali
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